Crete in 7 Days: Chania, Rethymno, Balos and Elafonisi

Chania

💬 Get full insurance and ask if it covers driving on dirt roads, like the one to Balos. Usually it doesn't.

Chania

💬 Boutique hotel in a Venetian mansion in the Topanas district, a minute's walk from the port. You leave the car in a public parking lot outside the old town.

Chania

Venetian harbour with a lighthouse at the end of the breakwater and the Janissaries Mosque on the quay.

💬 At sunset walk along the breakwater to the lighthouse, and from there you can see the whole harbour.

Chania

💬 Worth going one street away from the harbour, where it's cheaper and tastier. We ate dakos and boureki, a potato and zucchini pie that's a local dish.

Kissamos

💬 The boat first stops at Gramvousa, where you climb up to the Venetian fortress, and then at Balos. Take a beach umbrella because there's no shade in the lagoon.

Kissamos

Shallow turquoise lagoon at the tip of the Gramvousa peninsula, inside a Natura 2000 nature reserve.

💬 Shallow warm water, perfect for kids. It's forbidden to take sand or shells.

Kissamos

💬 Simple tavernas on the Kissamos beach, cheaper than in Chania.

Chania

Covered market from the early 20th century built in a cross shape at the entrance to the Old Town.

💬 The cross-shaped building underwent a long renovation, so some shops moved to the surrounding streets. Worth checking what's open.

Chania

💬 Handmade leather sandals and belts. Bargain politely.

Chania

💬 Urban beach nearby, walking distance from the Old Town, with fish tavernas right on the sand.

Chania

💬 Small square with a huge plane tree and outdoor tables. This is the most atmospheric neighbourhood in the Old Town.

Elafonisi

White monastery on a cliff above the sea in southwest Crete, and according to local legend one of its steps is made of gold.

💬 The monastery stands on a rock above the sea, on the way to Elafonisi. A short and beautiful stop.

Elafonisi

Shallow lagoon and small island connected to the beach by a sandbar, in a nature reserve known for its pink-hued sand.

💬 Best to arrive before 10:00 or after 16:00. The pink sand stands out at the waterline on the island side. It's forbidden to take sand.

Elafonisi

💬 In the mountain villages on the way to Chania there are tavernas with vegetables from the garden and grilled meat, much cheaper than the coast.

Rethymno

The only natural freshwater lake in Crete, at the foot of the White Mountains.

💬 You can rent a pedal boat and look for turtles in the water. The kids really enjoyed it.

Rethymno

💬 Worth choosing a hotel inside the Old Town and leaving the car in the municipal parking near the harbour.

Rethymno

16th-century Venetian fortress on a hill above Rethymno Old Town, with a domed mosque inside it.

💬 Come before sunset. From the walls you can see the whole Old Town and the sea.

Rethymno

💬 Small and beautiful harbour, but the restaurants on the quay are touristy. Check prices before sitting down.

Rethymno

16th-century Venetian monastery that became a symbol of the Cretan revolt against Ottoman rule in 1866.

💬 About half an hour's drive from Rethymno. There's a small museum, and the church facade is impressive.

Rethymno

💬 Wander among the Venetian houses and wooden Turkish balconies, and stop at a patisserie for kataifi.

Rethymno

💬 Long sandy beach just east of the harbour, with sunbeds for rent.

Rethymno

💬 At the end of the meal they bring raki and dessert on the house. It's a local custom.

Rethymno

💬 Bougatsa with mizithra cheese and sugar, the Cretan breakfast dish.

Rethymno

💬 About an hour and a quarter on the northern highway. Leave time for refuelling before returning.